Capanna Nimi: Ticino
There’s something different about the huts in Ticino. More than most others in Switzerland, they carry the quiet conviction that this is simply how things have been done for generations. Many are built of stone in the traditional Ticinese style; some still function as working farms, with goats or sheep grazing nearby. Others are tucked deep into the remote valleys of Val Bavona, Valle Maggia, or Valle Vergletto. And while these huts aren’t the highest in the country - most sit at relatively modest elevations by alpine standards - they’re among the hardest to reach. Perhaps it’s that remoteness that gives them their warm, rustic, resilient character. A night at a Ticinese capanna is really a special experience.
My friends and I have made it a tradition to stay at a Ticino hut every May to kick-off summer hiking season, and this year, we chose Capanna Nimi.
Day 1
Today’s hike starts in the village of Maggia, and it is characterized by one thing, and one thing only: going up. Steep ascents - especially ascents with hundreds and hundreds of stone steps built into the mountainside - are a Ticino speciality, and this trail is no different. After a quick detour to the beautiful Cascada del Salto, we started our hike to Nimi. Most of the trail is through the forest, so while there aren’t many views, it at least provided a decent sun cover during the relentless climb. Most of the 1,400 meters of elevation gain are covered in the first 5 kilometers. I was sweating out of areas I didn’t even know could sweat. The trail finally started to even out after passing the small hamlet of Aiarlo di Dentro, shifting into a more gradual traverse along the mountainside. We came across two goats on the path, who happily led us the rest of the way to Capanna Nimi.
Capanna Nimi is a cluster of stone houses, perched on a wide plateau that overlooks Lago Maggiore. The location alone is probably one of the best in the region, but what truly sets it apart is its identity as a family-run farm, home to a lively herd of over 60 friendly goats. The whole experience of staying here is just that: an experience. I actually don’t want to give too many details, because I think the fun lies in all the little surprises. But here are two tips: 1.) Bring your bathing suit if you want to try out their glacial “cold plunge” bath (and you will, after that sweaty hike), and 2.) Don’t arrive too late in the afternoon, or you’ll miss the 5pm apero, and it’s not one to be missed!
Start: Maggia (centro)
End: Capanna Nimi
7km, 1440m ascent/50m descent, T3-
Day 2
After breakfast, we bid Nimi and the goats farewell, and began our hike towards Locarno. Our route climbed up beyond the hut to the Passo di Nimi, and then traversed the long mountain ridge that separates Valle Maggia from Valle Verzasca. It’s actually the first stage of the Via Alta Vallemaggia (which looks incredible).
Today’s trail is demanding in a different way than yesterday’s. It’s more varied, with multiple peaks and descents. The trail largely follows the ridge the entire way, and is narrow and rocky with some exposure at certain points. The clouds were rolling in and out for most of the day, and while our view was completely obscured at the Madonna summit, the fog made the entire ridgeline seem very dramatic. And when the clouds cleared up, the views over the Ticinese Alps were extraordinary. It took us the full five hours to reach the Cimetta mountain station, where we inhaled a late lunch of gnocchi, pizza and french fries at the nearby restaurant, before riding the chairlift + gondola all the way down to Locarno.
A weekend very, very well spent.
Start: Capanna Nimi
End: Cimetta mountain station
10km, 1020m ascent/1110m descent, T4
(P.S. There is a red-white trail that also leads to the hut from Cimetta)
