Not Skiing? No Problem!
**PLEASE NOTE: I wrote this post in early 2020 (pre-Covid). I’ve updated it with some new trails/activites, but please make sure to adhere to all current coronavirus restrictions here in Switzerland (they change quickly), and stay safe and healthy this winter season!**
I wouldn’t consider myself a winter girl. The cold, the darkness, the hibernation - it’s tough for me. Snow is beautiful and magical and unlocks all sorts of childlike wonder, but my real problem? Lack of excitement for winter activities, because ski aficionado I am not.
I know, I know. We live in Switzerland. Not skiing is sacrilegious. And the thing is, I grew up skiing all the time - up until high school, when skiing all of a sudden became VERY uncool and I switched to snowboarding. But I really haven’t been back on a board since my early twenties, and I just didn’t miss it that much. Out of sight, out of mind, I guess. But now that we live in Switzerland, it is very much IN sight, all the time. I’m sure we will get there...eventually. But, until then, I’m trying to embrace the winter season by getting myself outside and trying other snow activities. Ones that require slightly less equipment commitment, start-up costs, and learning curves.
Even if you don’t ski, I think the key to not just surviving, but thriving, in the winter months is getting up to the mountains. Or, alternatively, to go south to the Italian area (but this post is about snowy winter things!). Gaining some mountain altitude is especially important if you live in Zurich, where the fog settles in like a thick, damp blanket over the city. Moreover, since we are having what I have dubbed an “unseasonably weird” winter in Switzerland (warm and windy with spring-like temps) - the only snow you might find this season is up in the mountains. And I know I’m no expert on the matter - but I’m a firm believer that, even sans skiing, it is still completely legit to partake in all the après-ski fun.
Winter hiking
The best way to ease your way into winter sports is winter hiking! Ok, it is more like winter walking than legitimate hiking, but it still counts. I don’t know if winter hiking is unique to Switzerland, but it was the first I’d heard of it, and I think it is great! Most snowy areas will have seasonal, groomed winter trails. Sometimes they follow paths of summer hiking trails or toboggan trails, and the only risky part if when you have to dart across the pistes with skiers flying down. I personally love winter hiking when it’s through forests - it all feels a bit magical to just wander around in the snow. Winter hiking trails are marked with bright pink signage, and pretty much every single mountain in the country has at least a couple great trails. The winter hiking world is your oyster!
And an added bonus: seeing all the skiers and snowboarders on the slopes, looking like they are having the best day ever, is about as motivational as it gets to inspire us to try it out. Maybe this is the year!
Jungfrau region: Grütschalp to Murren, Mürren - Gimmeln - Schiltgrat (this one gives a GREAT view of the North Face of the Eiger), First to Faulhorn (this is a long one, at 18km, but you can sledge the way back!)
Kandersteg: When it is cold enough, you can walk on frozen Oeschinensee!
Flumserberg: Every trail is a great one, with gorgeous views of the Walensee and Churfisten mountain range
Lenzerheide: Try the Alp Stätz or the Tgantieni Trail for winter wonderland magic.
Flims/Graubunden: Caumsee and Rhine Gorge (easy hike, with the view over the Rhine gorge as the big pay-off)
Snow-shoeing
A step up from winter hikes! This year we tried snowshoeing for the first time, and I am now officially hooked. It’s athletic, adventurous, and like winter hiking, allows me to get immersed in a dreamy winter world. What’s great is that there is that there are low “start-up” costs and learning curves: snowshoe rentals are pretty cheap, and you don’t need a special type of boot - you can strap them onto any snowboot or waterproof hiking boot. Poles are useful (but it is best to have poles that have “snow baskets” on the ends), but I think they only make a big difference if you are going through deep or super powdery snow. Dress warm, but in layers - I definitely work up a sweat! If you are a beginner, make sure to stick to marked snowshoe trails. They will be marked as normal winter wanderweg signs, but with a little snowshoe icon. If there is no sign, look for pink poles with orange tips. Most mountains have little shops to rent snowshoes, but for those coming from Zurich, Transa is a nice spot to rent gear for the day. It’s an outdoor gear mecca (insert chorus of angels singing here) - and plus, it is right by the main train station, so very convenient for day trips.
**always check mountain websites and trail statuses beforehand, for snow conditions and any avalanche warnings**
Engelberg: Obertrübsee snowshoe trail - great for beginners
Jungfrau: Murren Snowshoe trail
Chur: Brambrüesch–Feldis Trail - challenging and absolutely stunning
Central Switzerland: Try the Furreglen trail - it’s difficult (the ascent requires good fitness) and absolutely epic , or the Erzegg trail - not all that “remote,” but long and moderately challenging with gorgous views
St. Gallen: Our friends did the Alp Sellamat trail and gave it great reviews :) :
Ice-skating
Outdoor ice-skating is one of my favorite winter activities. Steep mountains, a snowy landscape, and an inky black frozen lake made for incredible natural ice skating rinks. Unfortunately, while lots of lakes in Switzerland do freeze over, not all of them are tested for safety and open for public use. It has to be really cold for at least a few weeks for lakes to freeze over, especially for them to freeze thick enough for skating. And even then, there might be only a small window of time for the lake to be open for skating. But I think that is part of its magic - it’s only there for a short time, and then it’s gone. If a lake is open for skating, there will also usually be a couple little kiosks set up for skate rentals and snacks.
Given the warm winter we have had this 2020, not make lakes have made the cut. But - if it start getting cold, check the websites for the lakes in your area - you just might get lucky!
Oeschinensee: Just the most magical winter wonderland skating experience
Skateline Abula: An iced-over, 3km trail through the forest that looks AMAZING.
Sledging
It’s not sledding, guys. It’s sledging - which is less like simply sliding down a little hill on a plastic, run-of-the-mill circular sled, and more like high-speed tobogganing . It’s intense! And honestly, unlike any type of sledding or sledging I’ve ever encountered. Sledge runs (or “schlitterbahn”) are found all over Switzerland. They are often hard-packed, retired ski trails that cut into the mountain or summer fire roads covered with thick snow in winter. There are gentle slopes, long slopes, short slopes, slopes with hairpin turns, and it’s definitely not just for kids - you can really pick up some serious speed. Apparently, it’s even a bit common for adults to sprain their ankles on sledge rides, because you use your heels as brakes. But mainly, it’s just a whole lot of fun. Sledges can be rented pretty much anywhere, and most of them are the traditional wooden style. I call them Father Christmas-esque, because they look like something Santa would pull through the woods. It’s about as wintry as it comes.
Preda-Bergün: famous 6km tobogganing that goes through forests and under viaducts
Uetliberg: of course, only when it actually snows in Zurich - but when it goes, everyone hops on the S10 to the top of the mountain to sledge their way down.
And here’s a link to sledge routes all over the country
Cross-Country
I guess this one is technically skiing. Cross-country skiing is well-known to be one of the most exhaustive sports, but it’s generally quick to learn, and its movements feel much more natural compared to downhill skiing. This was a new-to-me sport in the winter of 2021, and I loved it! There are different types of XC: We opted to start with classic cross-country skiing, where you follow a prepared track, with one ski in each groove, and glide straight forward in a striding motion. It feels similar to being on an elliptical machine. Skate skiing is kind of like speed skating on snow. Most beginners start with classic, and then work up to skate. You’ll likely see both classic and skate cross-country skiers when out, and lots of time they use the same route (classic on one side in the tracks, skate on the other side). Both styles are physically demanding, yet somewhat calming and meditative, especially once you hit your stride. Here’s a blog post about one of the best places to try cross-country, Goms.
Sauna
Fine, not technically a sport, but certainly one of the best winter activities out there. Is there anything better than steaming up when it’s frigid out? These are two (well, actually three) great options in Zurich: super-affordable (by day spa-standards), incredibly relaxing, and each offers a completely different type of experience.
Sauna am See - The Enge badi turns into a sauna on the lake in the winter. It’s fun to go on a clear day (when you can see the Alps!) or when it has been snowing. It’s a really laid-back spa environment - there are three dry sauna cabins, a small relaxation area with beach-style lounge chairs looking out to the lake, an open-air area with direct access to Lake Zurich, and a Finnish cold shower. But honestly, you don’t need the shower - the best way to drop your temps is to jump straight into the icy cold lake water. It’s a pretty unique city experience. But just be prepared: people will be naked. Oh, and Monday is for women only. It’s 30 CHF for entrance, with a maximum stay of 3 hours.
B2 Hotel Thermalbad & Spa - This is part of the B2 Hotel, but you can get a day pass to the spa (30 CHF, no time limit). The thermal baths themselves are wonderful. Huge oaken basis (that were formerly beer casks!) full of mineral-rich thermal water, a truly stunning emerald bath with floor to ceiling jewel-toned tiles that looks magical in the dim lighting, and a rooftop thermal infinity pool that looks over the city. Bathing suits required. The one drawback? If you go on the weekend, 50% of the clientele are teenage couples making out right next to you. The cure to this? Shell out an extra 30 CHF to get access to the B2 Irish-Roman Spa Ritual. It’s ah-mazing.
There are ten different “stations” where your body is slowly warmed, cleaned, relaxed and then cooled down again. My personal favorites were the flowering and herbal steam rooms (yes, they are different!), the large Roman bath with underwater massage bubblers all over, and the WARM STONES. Which is literally exactly as it sounds: large slabs of warm stones, exuding that perfect, sun-baked feeling, for lounging and napping and melting off into total bliss between water treatments. It’s inspired. INSPIRED, I tell you. The whole spa is housed in cavernous stone vaults, with low lights and candles flickering off the waters, and it’s all just such a uniquely relaxing experience.
Winter is still growing on me, but I’m coming around. Even if you, like me, are less than enthusiastic about skiing, there is plenty to do during the season. But if you try anything on this list - try the spa. Trust me. The Irish-Romans (whoever they are) are really on to something here.
