Riffelsee Loop: Zermatt, Valais
Zermatt in the fall is a dream. I mean, can you think of a more iconic pairing than golden larches and the Matterhorn?
There are a myriad of hiking options around Zermatt, but keep in mind that if you hike here in October, that most of the mountain transit will be closed. The only two open are the Matterhorn Glacier Paradise gondola, and the Gornergrat railway (but please, check the timetables carefully).
Zermatt - Riffelsee - Zermatt
The full hike we did is a big one, clocking in at over 7 hours of hiking time, with 1400m of elevation gain and loss. I wanted to link a few specific spots — the Grünsee, Riffelsee, Gorner Glacier, and Gletschergarten — so the only way to fit them all in was with one long loop. That said, because so many trails in this area connect, it’s easy to shorten the route. You could, for instance, take the gondola from Zermatt to Furi and hike up through the glacial valley to Rotenboden, or take the train to Riffelalp and then hike to the Grünsee. But if you have the time and the stamina, the full loop is absolutely worth it.
We started directly from Zermatt village. The trail climbs steadily through forested switchbacks until it reaches the hamlet of Findeln. After a short descent and another uphill stretch, you arrive at the beautiful Grünsee, surrounded by larch trees. From there, the ascent steepens and the landscape turns rocky and open, with sweeping mountain views. Zermatt’s landscape would be breathtaking even without the Matterhorn, but of course, it’s there, towering and perfectly framed at every turn. If I have one small gripe about Zermatt, it’s the sheer amount of infrastructure — gondolas, pylons, and cables cutting across the slopes. It’s not enough to spoil the magic, but it is a bit of an eyesore, especially outside of winter.
We reached the Gornergratsee and then started descending toward the Riffelsee. After being alone most of the day, the sudden appearance of tourist crowds was a bit jarring. From there, the path drops steeply into the glacial valley, easily the toughest stretch of the day. The larches down there were a patchwork of color — some already blazing orange, others still holding on to their summer green — and a turquoise river wound its way through the whole valley.
By the time we reached Furi, we could have taken the gondola back, but it felt right to walk it out. The light was softening, and the Matterhorn, ever-present all day, seemed to glow above the valley. We followed the path all the way back into Zermatt — tired, dusty, and completely content.
